"You can't make a good salad without good produce."

That was a quote from our server at Atlas Bistro after I heaped praise for the Roasted Root Vegetable salad I enjoyed. It is always fun for us to try a plate filled with all of our favorites from the farm and to see how a chef work with their flavors. This salad was such a great example of what is going on at the farm right now. It was warm and earthy, the roasted vegetables mixed with a creamy chevre cheese and pine nuts and topped with a mix of fresh greens. If I hadn't already ordered my entree, I would have had that salad for a second time.

On the other hand, had I done that I would have missed out on the Roasted Pheasant with Polenta and Greens, which was not something that should be missed. Atlas Bistro Chefs Joshua Riesner and Keenan Bosworth have created a full menu of well crafted dishes that focus on the best of the season.

Atlas Bistro is a small, quiet place, warmed by candle light and the fun part is that they are BYOB. Actually, BYOB is not something I usually enjoy, since I tend to forget that I need to come with my own until I am seated in a restaurant. However, at Atlas if you don't have a bottle, don't fear. The restaurant opens into AZ Wine Company. It really is much more enjoyable to wander through the aisles and find a wine that sounds right than trying to guess from a wine list. Make sure you pick out a good bottle, because the food deserves a strong pairing.

I also loved that Atlas Bistro also has a pretty loyal following, which is obviously returned in kind. There were a few tables marked with custom name plates for dedicated patrons. I don't know that I have seen that before, but I thought it said a lot about how much their regulars enjoy dining there, and how much they appreciate their patronage.

I am wondering how many times we will need to return to earn a name plate of our own. I think I am up for the challenge.

Atlas Bistro

2515 North Scottsdale Road, #18

Scottsdale, Arizona 85050

480.990.2433

www.atlasbistro.wordpress.com

Oh la la...

A few months ago Eugenia Theodosopoulos told us that her friend and mentor Jean Louis Clement was coming from Paris to work with her at Essence Bakery Cafe. He was coming for a week to help Eugenia and her staff refine and perfect some new recipes and products for the bakery. Jean Louis is a Meilleur Ouvrier de France (MOF) en Boulangerie/Veinnoiserie recipient. He earned the MOF award in bread baking. This is the highest and most distinguished honor a chef can receive in France and Jean Louis was presented the award by the President of France.

I asked if I could come and just sit and observe (and hopefully taste test, sample and indulge) while they went about their work. Sadly, as excited as I was to meet Jean Louis, when that day came I had a head cold that no chef would want near a kitchen.

But lucky for me a little box from Essence found its way to me and look what was inside!

It was a beautiful sampling of the croissants Eugenia and Jean Louis created. There was one traditional croissant, as well as a two an chocolate and almond version. They were perfect and a reminder nothing can replace authenticity. These croissants are the real deal, not Americanized version of a croissant. A Parisian would be proud.

Each bite took me through a million buttery layers from the top crunchy shell down through to the airy center. They have a rich buttery decadence with just a hint of salt. Croissants are so beautifully complex. They are light and yet rich, flakey and still chewy, they can be a breakfast or a dessert. I would have thought that the chocolate would be my favorite, but the almond croissant won out. I don't know what it was, the sweet almond filling, the dusting of confectioners sugar on top, the little slivers of almonds. All of them were thoroughly enjoyed in our home.

I am still very sad that I missed meeting Jean Louis and watching as he and Eugenia create a little of Parisian magic in Tempe, but I am so grateful to now enjoy the results of their work. You too can enjoy the gift that she and Jean Louis brought to our valley at the Essence Bakery Cafe. You can also see them for yourself online. Eugenia posted a video of their work on her website. Bob said he didn't know that croissants could taste like that. They can, although not on this side of the Atlantic, until now.

Essence Bakery Cafe

825 W. University Drive

Tempe, Arizona 85281

480.966.2745

www.essencebakery.com

A seat with a view...

Want a good seat at a hot restaurant? Bypass the wait and pull up a chair at the kitchen bar at St. Francis. There are only four seats, and they are first come first serve, but it is dinner and a show if you can snag one. We had the same great service sitting there and it provided a wonderful stage view of a well run kitchen at work. I would always sit at the kitchen table in a restaurant if possible. Cooking has become my spectator sport, and I never tire of watching the pros at work.

It does, however, make ordering a difficult task. I kept consulting the menu and changing my mind as I watched their staff at work. I didn’t catch the name of the cook who was manning the large brick oven that is the centerpiece to their kitchen, but he had a beautiful rhythm going preparing different dishes and moving them around in the heat. He had so many different dishes coming through at once and made it all look so easy. It was a choreographed dance with food.

If I could have, I would have ordered one of everything going through that oven, but I finally settled on the Roasted Chicken with the Green Garlic Mashed Potatoes in a heavenly mushroom sauce. In that wood-fired heat, the chicken skin was perfectly roasted while the meat remained so moist and tender it fell off the bone. All of the flavors melded together perfectly. Sean’s Arctic Char salad was the same. He had a beautiful piece of Char that was atop a colorful salad of beets, potatoes and herbs with a light lemon vinaigrette that really complemented the fish. All of the other dishes we had to admire as they were ushered in and out of the heat, but I made mental notes of what I hope to try in the future. I do have some serious lust now for my own brick oven. There is no substitute for wood-fired cooking.

Oh… and good news! St. Francis is now serving lunch. They have a fixed lunch menu available Tuesday thru Friday from 11:30am to 2:30pm. There is also a three course Business Lunch Special available, that looked wonderful, especially the part where they promise that you can be in and out in 30 minutes. Although there were no promises that you won’t want to linger.

My step-mother Lisa booked a lunch there this past Wednesday. She said it was incredible and that they made good on their 30 minute promise. They even sent her off with a small bag of warm cookies. She loved it so much (in particular the salad) that she booked a second business lunch there for Friday.

St. Francis

111 East Camelback Road

Phoenix, AZ 85012

602.200.8111

www.stfrancisaz.com

A little of Paris in the rain...

My name is Kate and I am addicted to the Parmesan Truffle Fries at Zinc Bistro.

There! I said it.

So much so I was at Zinc Bistro twice last week to satisfy my cravings. Just writing this is making me think of them again. These fries have started to take over my life. I have even begun my own quest to fulfill these cravings at home, experimenting with different potatoes and truffle oil, even searching to make the perfect aioli to dip them in just to scratch that itch. It is a sweet, sweet agony…

Try as I might though, there is no substitute for the real thing. And there definitely is no replicating that feeling of escaping off to Paris that Zinc Bistro has emulated so perfectly. You feel chic just sitting in one of their red booths, surrounded by the tinned ceiling, hardwood floors and long zinc bar. I was saddened that the pouring rain (both times) made sitting in their little garden patio off limits, but the candle lit glow inside helped to warm us.

Now I did try other things as well, a wonderful goat cheese ravioli with oxtail on one visit, along with the farm vegetable salad (wonderfully mixed and dressed), and their lunch special of an open-faced flank steak sandwich with mushroom soup on the second visit. Both were wonderful choices, the perfect comfort foods to chase away those rainy day doldrums.

Oh, but those fries…

Zinc Bistro

15034 N. Scottsdale Road, Suite 140

Scottsdale, Arizona 85254

480.603.0922

www.zincbistroaz.com

This time it's about lunch...

I stole my husband away from the Town & Country Market the other week for a quick lunch at The Parlor Pizzeria. I know hectic market days are, but look at this Roasted Beet Salad and Funghi Pizza. Man, I love that beet salad.

Wouldn't you steal away too?

(Don't worry, Sean brought some of that pizza back to Bob.)

The Parlor Pizzeria

1916 East Camelback Road

Phoenix, AZ 85016

602.248.2480

www.theparlor.us

Simply Perfect...

I love when simple things are done simply well. The ability to beautifully prepare something seemingly easy is the mark of a true talent, because if it was truly easy, we could all do it. Pasta seems like it should be the most straightforward of culinary feats. But when you have had it done well, really well, you realize that perhaps something as basic as pasta can in fact be quite complex.

I have always thought of pasta as more the vehicle to showcase other flavors, rather than being the star itself. That was until I was introduced to fresh, handmade pasta. The ingredients seem easy enough, a little flour, some olive oil, salt, egg, but in the hands of an expert, these elements can come together as pure magic all on their own. And magic is what you will find at Pasta Bar.

Pasta Bar is not an Italian restaurant, it is a pasta restaurant. Their focus is completely on making the extraordinary out of something quite common. Everything on their menu revolves around the pasta. From the first dishes to the accompanying sides, everything is selected and edited to make sure that the pasta is properly highlighted and enjoyed. And let’s face it, if you are going to a place with pasta in the name, wouldn’t you want it to stand out?

Wanting to see exactly how good they are at making pasta, I selected one of the simplest dishes, the Bavette al Cedro, which is lemon, Italian butter and a little Parmigiano. It melted in my mouth. The flavors were balanced perfectly, and it was evident that the handmade pasta was done with care. Sean went with the more complex Orecchiette all Puttanesca, described as having twelve ingredients from the Neopolitan streetwalker’s pantry. He was equally impressed (both with the dish and the description). With both we saw how these dishes can be elevated at the hands of a master.

As per our usual, we ordered the local farm vegetables as a starter. It was a beautiful presentation that included three offerings, one with citrus, one with butternut squash, and one with an unexpected pairing of beets and walnuts that worked wonderfully well together.

It would make sense that we would both be so delighted. Wade Moises, Pasta Bar’s chef, learned his craft from Mario Batali, a true connoisseur of pasta. In our house even Aidan knows that Mario Batali equals good pasta. Wade trained at Babbo and Lupa, two of our favorites in New York, before coming to Phoenix. Wade and Nick Gentry also brought a little of the big city feel to their restaurant. Entering Pasta Bar feels a little like sneaking into a speakeasy. The entrance is in the back, hidden from the street by two other restaurants. And like a speakeasy, there is a cozy, private feeling and a well thought out menu of libations. If you go, order yourself a Jack’s New Fashion, their updated take on an Old Fashion. Just like the pasta, you will be dazzled.

Pasta Bar

705 North 1st Street, Suite #110

Phoenix, AZ 85004

602.687.8704

www.pastabaraz.com

Warming up in Flagstaff...

We got to have a brief break during the holidays to go play up in the snow. Even as native Arizonans there is just something about seeing snow during December that just feels right. That said, I only lasted so long before needing to warm up and Criollo Latin Kitchen was the perfect spot to do just that.

Having just opened in December, Criollo is right in the middle of Flagstaff’s downtown located on San Francisco Street. I have always loved Flagstaff for its seasons and merciful temperature drop from Phoenix in the summer months. It has been nice to see the transformation that has been taking place up there over the past few years. The downtown area has begun to mature with the emergence of independent shops, galleries and restaurants are starting to add a local flavor and become a destination all their own. Criollo is adding its own flavor, Latin to be exact, that was missing from this mix. It is owned by Paul and Laura Moir, the same people who own Brix in Flagstaff, another favorite haunt of ours when in the northern country. If you haven’t tried Brix, that alone is worth the two hour drive.

Having spent the morning playing in the snow and working up an appetite, Sean, Aidan and I were ready to attack the menu when we got to Criollo. I was so hungry and cold at that point I would have settled for nearly anything. Thankfully I didn’t have to settle at all. Criollo offers brunch, lunch, dinner and tapas menus, although they offered to prepare us anything from their repertoire. A big thank you for that, since I couldn’t get past the Fingerling Potatoes with duck fat, sea salt and aioli on the tapas menu before looking at what they offered for lunch. Aidan turned his nose up at the aioli at first, but after accidentally getting a taste, he nearly finished off the whole plate.

Not to worry, I did have a Sandwich Cubano coming. I love a good Cuban Sandwich, and this one ranked right up there with the best. Sean and Aidan both went for the fish tacos, once they heard that they came with Mahi Mahi. I only got the briefest of bites from Aidan’s taco, since he was being a little territorial, but after having had a bite, I completely understand. The entire menu offers wonderfully authentic selections that all come with great care paid to organic ingredients and sustainably raised meats. Oh, and they have churros for dessert with Venezuelan chocolate! We were happily full by that point, but Sean has never turned down a churro. Why don’t all churros come with Venezuelan chocolate?

Flagstaff had been long overdue for noteworthy fare when Brix finally arrived four years ago. Brix turned up the notch for Flagstaff dining, moving away from the college/ski town fare to true cuisine. Criollo Latin Kitchen follows in that same tradition. It is nice to now have some real dining options in Flagstaff.

Latin food in cold weather, what a revelation!

Criollo Latin Kitchen

16 North San Francisco

Flagstaff, AZ 86001

928.774.0541

www.criollolatinkitchen.com

Holiday Dining Recommendations...

I love this time of year!

Everything about the holidays is just magic to me. One of my favorite things about the season is just being in the presence of my family and friends. More than the lights and music and gifts, sharing a meal with the ones I love makes this time of year truly special.

So, here are a few thoughts on where to go to celebrate some of these holiday moments...

To catch up with the girls after a marathon day of Christmas shopping... Calistro California Bistro

Calistro Beet Salad

To have a good home cooked meal without messing up your kitchen... Rancho Pinot

To skip the company potluck and have lunch out with your coworkers instead... The Parlor Pizzeria

To impress your boss before the bonus check is written... Noca

To refuel in Flagstaff after driving up to play in the snow... Brix

To give a true foodie a meal to remember... Binkley's

To feel better about food after too many Christmas cookies... True Food Kitchen

To give a hostess gift that will guarantee you an invite next year... Essence Bakery Cafe

Essence Macarons

To surrounding yourself with new friends, even if your dining alone... FnB

To leaving town without braving Sky Harbor or the I-10... Zinc Bistro

To have an excuse to dress up and go out on the town... St. Francis

To grab something warm to drink because it is actually cold outside... Lux

To show your East Coast relatives how pizza is really done... Pizzeria Bianco

Pizzeria Bianco Margherita Pizza

To have a truly romantic New Year's Eve Date... Quiessence at South Mountain

Have a wonderful time working your way through this list.

I know I will!

FnB = LuV

Sean and I got to spend an evening at the newly opened FnB in Old Town Scottsdale. FnB is for Food-and-Beverage, and they definitely deliver on the name. For those of you in mourning over Sea Saw, as I am, you will be happy to know that Charlene Badman and Pavle Milic have recreated that same space with their own version of culinary genius. The menu and atmosphere does not at all resemble its previous life under Nobou Fukuda’s direction, but you will find that you are still dazzled by both a wonderful meal with inventive flavor pairings and the entertainment of a little kitchen theater while you dine.

I love watching a talented chef at work. I have spent years at Marsha’s kitchen counter while she creates her magic, all of it seemingly effortless. The bar at FnB offers this experience. The newly transformed space is very welcoming to pulling up a chair and watching as Charlene graces the kitchen. I found myself simultaneously enjoying what I had ordered and at the same time making mental notes for my next trip while I saw her create one beautiful dish after another.

Charlene Badman offers up a menu that displays the same culinary prowness she demonstrated at Rancho Pinot with selections that include Roast Jidori Chicken, Fried Green Tomatos with Green Goddess dressing (yes, please!) and Boneless Trout with Sunchokes, Caramelized Onions and Dill. All items we tried and enjoyed, along with a Cauliflower Gratin, a previously mentioned favorite of mine on the blog. Our conversation was interrupted throughout the meal with exclamations of “Oh wow! You have to try this!”

The new decor is very inviting, but it is Pavle's attentiveness that makes you feel at home. I felt like I was a regular on my first night. Charlene offered us a taste of a new item of Braised Leeks with a Fried Egg on top that will soon be added to the menu. There was also a side of bread, to make sure we enjoyed every last bite, since the sauces were as much of a star as the dishes they accompanied.

Just when I thought we couldn’t take anymore, we saw her at work on a dessert, and found the strength to continue. Not wanting to chose favorites we ordered both the Crème Brulee with Meyer Lemon and an Apple Crisp with homemade Vanilla Ice Cream. Sean is a Crème Brulee fan (and snob, to be honest) and he declared Charlene’s to be the best he had ever tried. Plus, nothing is cooler than seeing a Crème Brulee caramelized with a branding iron. Told you it was kitchen theater.

My only regret was that we missed the Bread Pudding, made with the Chocolate Cherry Bread sold at the Old Town Scottsdale Farmer’s Market. That bread is my downfall, I have already hoarded some away in my freezer to save for Christmas morning. I can’t imagine what it must be like with Charlene working it into a bread pudding. Guess I will have to go back.

FnB is a such beautiful new addition to Old Town Scottsdale. I wish Charlene and Pavle all the success they so richly deserve. There must be good karma in that kitchen, because I foresee enjoying wonderful evenings there once again.

FnB

7133 East Stetson Drive, #2

Scottsdale, AZ 85251

480-425-9463

(I do not know of a website as of yet, but go find them on Facebook. They have a growing fan base, myself included!)

Dinner Coup...

Celebrating a special occasion? A quiet anniversary? Big milestone? Maybe you just need to celebrate that it's Tuesday with someone special?

Coup des Tartes is such a wonderful place when you have something special to celebrate. Cozy and romantic and with such delicious food, it just feels like an occasion when you walk through the door. Coup des Tartes has the intimate feel of a restored home with little rooms, a courtyard, and tables near the fireplace. Maybe it was the candlelight, but it seem like every table had something to toast.

We had to order a tart. We chose the Three Onion Tart and Rocquefort salad to start. I enjoy dessert tarts, but savory ones are always more interesting and creative to me. They are complex to pull off successfully. Let's just say the the restaurant is aptly named, it was beautifully done.

I also enjoyed the Chicken Coup with an argula cream sauce. I have never had an argula cream sauce, but I know that I will again. Sean had the Pork with a wonderful mustard sauce, which I enjoyed sopping up with their bread. It was a lovely evening and Coup des Tartes did make an ordinary Tuesday evening extraordinary.

If you go, do know that they do not have a wine list. For a small corking fee you can bring your own bottle. So even if you are just needing a night out, pick a favorite vintage and let Coup des Tartes help to make dinner out an event to remember.

Coup des Tartes

4626 N. 16th Street

Phoenix, AZ 85016

602.212.1082

www.nicetartes.com

Houston... I'll have the squash!

One of the things I enjoy ordering when I visit a restaurant that buys from McClendon's Select is the vegetarian plate. I have found that restaurants that care about buying organic usually take great pride in how they prepare vegetable dishes. I love seeing what different chefs do with our produce and the vegetarian plate always offers a beautiful presentation that highlight the flavors of what we grow.

Both Houston's restaurants in the Valley have worked with McClendon's Select for some time. I have ordered the vegetable plates at both and have been always interested to see how they use what is in season. I can tell you that right now Houston's Scottsdale is serving our Spaghetti Squash in a way I have never had before, but one that I hope to replicate at home again and again.

The Spaghetti Squash came sauteed in olive oil with golden raisins, spinach, Chanterelle mushrooms and a little Parmesan-Reggiano. It was delightful! Those flavors all worked so well together. Sean had ordered the snapper and came with a side of it as well, which is a good thing, because I wasn't sharing. We enjoyed it as much as their famed Chicago-Style Spinach Dip, which says a lot.

So, all you carnivores out there, take a walk on the vegetarian side every now and then. You never know what you are going to find!

Houston's Scottsdale

6113 North Scottsdale Road

Scottsdale, AZ 85250

480.922.7775

www.hillstone.com

Good Morning!

What a wonderful way to start a day!

Sean, Aidan and I called my Dad and step-mother Lisa the other day and asked if they wanted to take a trip with us. That it involved a promise of hash browns was met with an enthusiastic response.

The five of us went to downtown Phoenix for Matt's Big Breakfast. We remember Matt and Erenia from their days at Pizzeria Bianco's. I was so happy for them to see the crowd around their front door patiently waiting for a table. (Don't fear... the wait was short and worth it!)

Before I get started on the food, let me just say that the service was impeccable. Our coffee never reached the bottom of the cup, our food arrived in a blink, and any request was answered before asked. And they were nice.

There is a reason it is named Matt's Big Breakfast, because they do treat breakfast like a big deal. Lisa and I decided while we were enjoying the sunshine outside that we were going to order whatever it was that we were smelling. There was the most wonderful rosemary, potato aroma teasing us. Lucky for us that all of their breakfast items come with a side of those home fries or the hash browns. I did go with the fries, but only after I made a deal with Dad that he order the hash browns. I will report that both were as heavenly as they smelled! (Yes, I did steal from my father's plate.)

Aidan had the waffles... which he told me to write that they were wonderful with 1,000 exclamation points. Can't say more than that. Actually we all felt that way about what we chose. Sean and Lisa both had something called "The Hog & Chick", a dish they enjoyed as much as the name.

Just as we were all feeling happily full and fulfilled a plate of pancakes somehow ended up on our table and we rallied. Now, to clarify, I like pancakes, but truthfully a pancake is a pancake. They all taste more or less the same to me. That is until I had Matt's pancakes. The five of us dug in greedily, all of the same opinion. I don't know how they make them - but those pancakes were like nothing I have had before.

We drove home happy and all in need of a nap. I am pretty sure that Dad and Lisa will take this trip with us again. Only next time it will be on the promise of pancakes too!

Matt's Big Breakfast

801 North 1st Street

Phoenix, AZ

602.254.1074

www.mattsbigbreakfast.com